The Mongolian Identity in Traditional Ornaments
HONG KONG, December 11, 2014 — Intertwining their culture and social identity into sophisticated ornaments, generations of Mongolians have passed down the art and splendor of their accessories since the 13th century. Betty Lo, a vigorous collector of Chinese art, explained the context and symbolism behind Mongol ornaments from the 13th century to the late Qing Dynasty at Asia Society Hong Kong Center.
In the Mongolian community, women were treated more equally and often sought after for political advice. This phenomenon can be dated back as early as the 13th century when the region was under the rule of Genghis Khan, the Great Khan of the Mongol Empire. While ornaments and jewelry from different clans vary in design, they all share the same opulence and complex structure symbolizing wealth, status, and nobility. Tall headdresses worn by women were also used to differentiate gender due to the similarity in clothing between the Mongolian male and female.
According to Ms. Lo, the concept of the tall "gugu" headdress was associated with a triumphant battle in which Mongolian women contributed to its victory. Women received the permission to wear the cap that resembles a soldier at all times. "The whole idea is like a bird in flight," said Betty, "The skull cap being the body of the bird and the moveable ear flaps are two wings."
Betty showcased a real set of traditional headdress and ornaments from the 19th century for the presentation to illustrate the fine workmanship of the Mongolians and audiences were invited to examine the pieces.
Event information: The Splendor of Mongol Ornament - A Legacy of Opulence and Auspice
Video: Watch the complete program (49 min., 34 sec.)